We haven't managed many family outings for cultural events, but we did take the kids this week only a cloudy-day trip to Green Gables House in the Prince Edward Island National Park. Green Gables is the destination most likely to be dutifully-checked-off-the-checklist by bus tour visitors to PEI, but it's still on our family's must-see list simply because our three-year-old adores Anne and Green Gables House and anything that suggests that the elaborate stories she holds in her imagination could have some place in the real world.
What's realest and best at Green Gables House is still what has always been most authentic there: the real "Lover's Lane" and the brook path now called the Balsam Hollow Trail. This was the cow path that L. M. Montgomery returned to and rhapsodized over and, famously, signed over to her heroine Anne of Green Gables as territory for her bountiful imagination.
The situation of her grandfathers' cousins' house may have inspired Montgomery's descriptions in Anne of Green Gables, but what really lured the author to the locale was the lane and brook behind the house.
The Balsam Hollow Trail ambles over a quiet and playful brook and boasts more diverse species from the Acadian Forest than many of the National Park trails that are preserved more for their natural than their cultural importance.
There's poignancy on this brief trail. Lover's Lane has aged in the hundred years since Anne was published. The brook has to be protected from golf balls from encroaching golf course. The birches that have seen so much are now girdled or etched with random initials of passersby. And Parks Canada does not seem to be ensuring succession planting that would ensure the health and biodiversity of the trail for the next 100 years. The woods look bedraggled and careworn in May and November.
But there is magic on the brook path that inspired our best-known writer. There are always trout in the pond most people walk past near the entry to the trail. It is August, and the many varieties of fern are still lush. The spotted touch-me-nots are blooming, their leaves glinting with water droplets that bely the plant's other name: jewelweed. The bunchberries are clustering red on the ground. The occasional rich blue bead of a lily still dangles enticingly. The smell of balsam fir drifts sweet across the water, and witches' broom in the spruces suggests enchantments.
There are more ghosts of inspiration on this trail than on the Haunted Wood trail. It is still worth a wander.
(Note: The trail has stairs and is not fully accessible to wheelchairs or strollers.)










