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A Course in Miracles

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Pig and Whistle

I’m Dining Out Here
by Andrew Sprague

Two friends and I recently traveled up west to say so long to a friend’s father. The wake was in Tyne Valley and like a lot of things this past winter, it was delayed a day because of weather. Anticipating a big crowd we decided to get on the road early to beat the line and get a little more time with the family. That also meant we’d have some time to grab a bite to eat and a cold drink before heading back to town.

From the get go I was confident The Landing would be open. It’s a great spot, if you haven’t been, and it’s one of the only places open for miles with food and a liquor licence in February. At least that’s what I thought. On the way past the ten foot high snow bank covering the entire front entry was a clear sign we would not be eating at The Landing. So where do you go to eat in Tyne Valley in February? I put that question to the nice lady from the funeral home and she suggested the grocery store. That was not the kind of environment we were looking for. That’s when it dawned on me. I asked if the Pig and Whistle served food. She said she thought so. That was good enough for us.

The Tyne Valley Fire Hall hasn’t been called the Pig and Whistle for a long time. Years ago on Boxing Day my dad and I pegged twelve points to go out against four in an epic game of cribbage at the Pig and Whistle against my uncle and a buddy of his, so there’s some history there for me. My aunt and uncle live nearby and the Pig and Whistle was the only place to go within a short drive. So when we visited, it was a common destination for the parents. Some time ago a major addition at the Fire Hall included ten pin bowling lanes and a larger event space. Before that Thursday in February, I had been there maybe once in fifteen years.

Walking toward the door we all joked that we were glad we’d left our man bags in Charlottetown. Something told us purses would make us stand out just a little more than the embroidered vest one of us was already sporting that day. There were four people in the bar, one on the gambling machines, two at a table and a bartender. Conversation didn’t necessarily stop when we walked in, we couldn’t tell, it was hard to know if they were talking to begin with. We got a nod from one guy, so that was a good sign. We walked up to the bar to have a look at the menu. It was all fried food save the pickled eggs. There were fries, chicken fingers, bar clams, wings and a few other assorted deep fried offerings. I got the chicken finger basket, as did one other. The third got bar clams, wings and a pickled egg; truly a lunch of champions. We retreated to the pool table with an Alpine each and waited for the food.

It came out one order at a time ten minutes apart. I didn’t ask, but I suspect that’s because they have one fryer, just one. To tell you the truth, as fried food goes, it was pretty good. The highlight, aside from the pickled egg which is always a highlight, was the bar clams. There should be more bar clams on menus everywhere.

We left full and happy after some high quality pool and fried food. The Tyne Valley Fire Hall definitely exceeded our expectations.

Burrito Basics

I’m Dining Out Here
by Andrew Sprague

About 20 years ago I worked at Pat and Willy’s Bar and Grill in Charlottetown. At the time it was one of the busiest restaurants, table for table, on the Island. Pat and Willy’s served Mexican food, or at least what people thought was Mexican food back in those days. If you grew up in Charlottetown in the 90s you generally had little to no baseline comparison when it came to most ethnic food. So when someone told you what you were eating was a burrito, then that was exactly what it was, even if all the flour tortilla contained was chicken, bacon and cheese, and all that came with it was salsa and sour cream. Pat and Willy’s served exactly those kind of burritos by the bucket load. I would routinely serve 15 to 20 chicken burritos a night, sometimes far more. They were our biggest seller.

I’ve since learned that bacon is a fairly rare burrito ingredient. Most burritos also contain at least rice and beans. The vast majority are stuffed full of all kinds of ingredients like lettuce, tomato, peppers, and avocado to name a few. Seems pretty basic, I know. But again, I had no baseline.

Pat and Willy’s closed about ten years ago and there have been very few if any restaurants since that have regularly offered a burrito on the menu, until recently. At Burrito Jax next to The Guild on Queen Street they have three things on the menu; burritos, burrito bowls and quesadillas. There’s no restaurant service at Burrito Jax, just a counter and some tables. The set up is very much like Subway; pick the kind of burrito you want, be it chicken, beef, pork or veg, then move along the counter to pick your style of tortilla and your toppings. Your burrito gets heated up on the grill and when it’s ready they shout your number.

When I decided to do an article about Burrito Jax I thought I’d invite an old friend from my Pat and Willy’s days to see how Jax burritos stood up against the old Charlottetown best seller. That friend wasn’t available but I went anyway. In typical Charlottetown fashion the first person I saw when I walked in the door was Brent Byrnes, the former manager of Pat and Willy’s.

I ordered the small Jax chicken burrito. Jax chicken is like regular chicken but marinated and more flavourful. I stuffed it with rice, beans, cheese, guacamole, lettuce, tomato, green onion, green pepper, jalepenos, salsa, chipotle sauce and burrito sauce, which is a mixture of lime, sour cream and spices.

It was a pretty good burrito. The small size was filling and the spices brought just enough heat for a medium sized pool of sweat to form on my bald spot. No one ingredient stood out except maybe the chipotle sauce which brought the heat and a little smoke as well. At $9.65 with a San Pellegrino it’s a mighty good deal for lunch or a late night stop gap measure. What I can’t say for sure is whether it’s a good burrito compared to other burritos. I just don’t have the baseline. I rarely, if ever, order a burrito. All that said, Burrito Jax has set my new standard.

Brent and I did a fair bit of reminiscing over that lunch hour. We didn’t work together at Pat and Willy’s. We passed like ships in the night. But we worked with a lot of the same people. He said he nearly took the chicken burrito off the menu because the food cost was huge. In the end he couldn’t do it to the ever faithful chicken burrito fans of the day. I wonder how they’d order their burrito at Jax?

Exclusive Establishment

I’m Dining Out Here
by Andrew Sprague

Years ago it wouldn’t be uncommon for me to spend two hundred dollars a week on restaurant food. Now-a-days I mostly eat at home but I still manage to spend about thirty dollars a week at two places. Those who know me would guess one immediately but few, if any, would guess the other. The only people who’d know would eat there regularly themselves, and ninety nine percent of those share a common trait; employment in the provincial civil service.

Zax Cafe is in the basement of the Sullivan Building, which is the smaller of the two grey provincial administration buildings next to Victoria Park in Charlottetown. Zax recently became the most exclusive cafeteria style dining establishment in the province. That happened when new security measures came into effect and people no longer had unfettered access into provincial offices. To get there now you have to have business with the province. I’m not sure that new found exclusivity is working in Zax’ favour, mind you.

Zax is owned by Kenny Zakem, a man who’s seen more than a few kitchens in his day. He was an owner at Smitty’s for years and more recently at Angel’s Restaurant. Kenny mans the counter as do Trevor and Edna. Trevor’s been all over but spent a long time in the north. I'm pretty sure Edna was working with the previous incarnation of the cafeteria. She specializes in cinnamon rolls.

At Zax Cafe the Friday special is always fish and chips. Monday it’s always a sandwich of some kind. Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays are a crap shoot. Zax always has a seasonal turkey dinner special near Christmas and Thanksgiving and they’re always highly anticipated by the clientele. The turkey dinner this year was fantastic and a ton of food. The dressing was especially tasty. I’m sure there were more than a few heavy eyelids around the complex that afternoon (insert civil service joke here). Zax also does a really good Lebanese plate from time to time, not to mention more common specials like pizza, chili and lasagna. The regular menu has all the usual suspects; burgers, fries with or without the works, chicken fingers and soups. There are salads, desserts, drinks and other cold food in the fridges next to the line, as well as baked goods and coffee. Zax also makes sandwiches fresh to order. Customers need only fill out a sandwich card and wait for Kenny to yell their name. It’s rare for the special or anything else to cost more than ten dollars.

I eat at Zax Cafe at least twice a week. The food is pretty good, but there are other reasons I keep coming back. Kenny, Trevor and Edna are great people. They know their customers’ names and are always quick to say hi. They do a lot for charity too. Kenny is one of the people behind Santa’s Angels and he’s quick to help other folks with fund raisers of one kind or another. There’s almost always someone to sit with. It’s quiet, it’s spacious and there are often politicians there. Sometimes I sit with them.

I’d recommend you try Zax for yourself, but I’m not exactly sure how it would go at security. I suppose you could give it a shot, but you’d probably need an insider to take you down. It’s not easy to find either. It’s kind of tucked away in a building that has a bizarre layout to begin with. If nothing else, getting there would be an unusual challenge for an eager foodie looking for a small cafeteria experience like no other.

Jolly Good

Time-tested  tips for surviving the Christmas staff party season

I’m Dining Out Here
by Andrew Sprague

I went to my first grown up staff Christmas party when I was in my mid-teens. There were about twenty of us, half of whom were teenagers. We had snacks and drinks and we played cards for money. There was an argument over the game at one point and we were told rather sternly to put the cards away. That only left snacks and pop, so it put quite a damper on the festivities. All in all it was pretty lame, but it was the first party I’d ever been invited to by an adult and I thought that was pretty cool.

Since then I’ve been to three hundred and forty-two work related Christmas parties. Approximately. Big and small, modest and lavish, cheap and ungodly expensive, I’ve seen my share. And one thing I can say for sure is that there’s no social occasion like it. You never really know your coworkers until you’ve seen how they handle themselves at a Christmas party. For some people the Christmas staff party is one of the biggest social occasions of the year. For others, it’s an uncomfortable obligation.

With that in mind, I’d like to share a few time tested  tips for surviving the Christmas staff party season. With any luck they’ll help you avoid an awkward Monday morning.

The first and most obvious tip is to pace yourself, or at least set a pace similar to those around you. If everyone’s getting hammered, feel free to get at it. Otherwise your goal should be to remain vertical until you’re ready to go home. We’ve all been to staff parties where one person gets completely tanked and has to be carried out to a cab. Don’t be that person. It’s unbelievably embarrassing and it greatly increases the probability of stupidity. Wearing the stupid drunk label at work can be a lot to live up to so drink to your surroundings.

It’s also very important to dress appropriately. Fortunately this means a wide variety of gaudy Christmas sweaters and tight fitting elf costumes become perfectly acceptable attire. You’re rolling the dice with a Santa costume, though. There can only be one Santa. And if you’re not careful, jolly old Saint Nick could very quickly become creepy Kris Kringle. Creepy Kris Kringle rarely gets promoted.

Food can be a problem, too much especially. If your party involves a dinner followed by festivities it might be worth laying off the second helping of turkey dinner. However, if the party planner ordered a buffet meal, then guests should only be obliged to eat, and all other activities should be completely optional. Either way, eat accordingly and with caution. A good base is essential, but too much gravy will put you to sleep.

Games can be good, but for god’s sake don’t make people play. And when you do play, play nice. Games are supposed to be fun, not insanely competitive. Don’t ruin your party the way we ruined ours, all those years ago, with a fight over a game and money. People get tense when there’s a lot of money on the line over the holidays. Tension does not enhance good times.

So to sum up; drink to your surroundings, creepy Kris Kringle rarely gets promoted, too much gravy will put you to sleep and tension does not enhance good times. Remember these tips to help keep your staff party from turning into the last supper this Christmas.

And don’t forget the best tip of all—don’t drink and drive!

Two Days in Porktober

I’m Dining Out Here
by Andrew Sprague

Ten years ago you’d be hard pressed to find a handful of restaurants on Prince Edward Island that served pulled pork. For those still unfamiliar, pulled pork is made by slow cooking a pork roast, usually a shoulder, with some sort of dry rub or marinade. When it’s done it just pulls apart. Variations of it’s preparation are found all over the world, but most commonly in the Southern US and Central America. In the last decade its popularity has skyrocketed, and not just on the Island. Subway recently jumped on the pulled pork band-, or should I say chuck-wagon; a clear sign customers have been asking for it. We started seeing it on the menu here about five years ago. It’s safe to say that the majority of pub style menus on the Island now include pulled pork in one form or another, especially during Porktoberfest.

Oh! To be the geniuses at Fresh Media. First you hit one out of the park with PEI Burger Love, the most popular local food and restaurant promotion in the Island’s history. Then you flip that success into what has become Burger Love’s pubescent cousin. Porktoberfest turned three years old this past October. Twenty-seven restaurants took part this year—only four short of the number that participated in Burger Love’s third year. It was a nice boost for a hog industry that’s seen its share of hard times over the last 20 years.

I was away for the better part of the second week of Porktoberfest, and I wasn’t able to get out the first week of October, so for the sake of this column I ate back-to-back-to-back pulled pork sandwiches over two days in October to be able to report sufficiently on the event. It was a small price to pay for the craft.

The lead-off hitter at lunch on Wednesday was the Applewood at the Factory Cookhouse on Kent Street. This hickory smoked pulled pork sandwich was served with sliced MacIntosh apples, garlic aioli, butter lettuce and Cow’s smoked cheddar on a pretzel bun. It was a pretty good start to Porktoberfest, and even though I found the pork a little on the dry side, the smoked cheddar, apples and garlic aioli made the sandwich all together enjoyable.

I took the family to the Olde Triangle for supper on Wednesday. That’s when I met Zorba the Pork, the Triangle’s Greek inspired entry for Porktoberfest. What a sandwich! The mesquite and applewood smoked pulled pork was served on a pita with red onion, tomato, cucumber, feta cheese, kalamata olives and tzatziki. I never dreamed of serving pulled pork that way but my initial apprehension was quashed on the first bite. The pork was moist and tender and the whole package was fresh and delicious. I did wonder, however, whether I was going to be able to pull off sandwich three.

That turned out to be a non-issue because the Barber-Ham Lincoln at lunch on Thursday at John Brown’s Grillhouse on Victoria Row was a pretty fine sandwich too. It featured root beer braised pulled pork with a balsamic reduction, sweet raspberry candied onions, maple peppercorn bacon, local pea shoots, and whipped goat cheese on a buttered brioche bun. Unlike Zorba, all the ingredients in this sandwich blended together to make on consistent flavour all the way through. It was sweet, fresh, savoury and sharp all at the same time. I expected the root beer to be a little overpowering but it helped balance all the flavours. I enjoyed every bite.

Most surprising was that I didn’t immediately swear off pulled pork after the third sandwich. I thought for sure I’d be sick of it, but I wasn’t. I guess I like pulled pork. And if the success of Porktoberfest, and the ever increasing popularity of its main ingredient are any indication, then we can all expect to see more of this delicious, smoky, slow cooked pork on menus all over the Island.

In and Out of Town

I’m Dining Out Here
by Andrew Sprague

My number one challenge as a restaurant writer these days is finding time to get out of Charlottetown to the kinds of places people go when they don’t have little kids at home. Places in exotic locations like Souris, West Point and Stanley Bridge. Our childcare situation gives us two to three hour windows—not enough time to drive across hell’s half acre to try a new place. We do, however, enjoy a leisurely-paced date in town from time to time. 

All that said, there were still a couple of true highlights on our limited culinary travels this summer; one in town with the boy, and one out of town on our own.

Of all the places I wanted to eat this summer, number one on my list was the Olde Glasgow Mill in New Glasgow. Emily Wells is one of my favourite chefs and when I heard she was moving on from The Dunes I had mixed emotions. I was sad to see her leave such a unique, and beautiful location, but I was excited to see how she’d change the menu to suit her new beautiful and unique location.

Jinny and I took a vacation day each on a Tuesday to go to the Olde Glasgow Mill while Charlie was in daycare.

We started with the mussels in an Asian-style broth. The first order had to go back because the mussels were mostly raw, but the second batch was delicious and we asked for extra bread to sop up the broth. Jinny had the spinach and chickpea curry with sweet potatoes and na’an bread for her main. She swore up and down she’d use sweet potato in her curries from that moment on, so I assume she liked it. I had an old standby from The Dunes lunch menu that happened to be on special at the Mill that afternoon; the steak sandwich with sour cream and chimichurri. Maybe I was feeling sentimental, but I wasn’t let down. The thing I like about this sandwich is that it strikes a perfect balance between the smoky, savoury flavour of the beef and cheese and the sharpness provided by the chimichurri and sour cream. We finished off with a three-berry bread pudding we’d both had before and would have again in a heartbeat. It was an all-together great meal.

If Olde Glasgow Mill was my most eagerly anticipated dining experience this summer, then Piatto on Queen Street in Charlottetown was easily the most surprising and unexpected.

Piatto Pizzaria and Enoteca opened to great fanfare in early July after the media got wind of their certified authentic Neopolitan-style pizza. The certification is extremely hard to get and only a handful of restaurants in Canada have it. There are several standards that must be met to achieve the certification, the most interesting of which stipulates that the tomatoes must be from the foothills of Mount Vesuvius, and they aren’t available at the Superstore, apparently.

I’ve been to, or ordered from Piatto four times now. The first time was with the family in mid-July. We dine early these days, usually between 4:30 and 5:00 so we had no trouble getting seats. Anytime after 5:30 meant line-ups for the better part of the summer at Piatto.

We decided to try a little of everything on that first trip. We ordered one of the two certified pizzas; the Margherita, the insalata Cesare (aka Caesar salad), and the Pacchi di Prosciutto; mozzarella balls wrapped in prosciutto, covered in tomato sauce and baked. The pizza was fantastic and totally original for Charlottetown. It’s very simple; just tomato sauce, basil and cheese on a thin crust. But there’s a beauty in that simplicity that’s hard to describe. You just have to try it for yourself. The Caesar salad was good, but the mozzarella balls were phenomenal. I savoured every bite and tried to steal some of Jinny’s half. She was having none of it. We finished off with a light and tasty piece of tiramisu. Charlie spent most of his time crawling from table to table, saying hello, or playing with the decorative Vespa scooter. He seemed to enjoy himself too.

It was a great meal in a one-of-a-kind atmosphere, and a big highlight of our summer.

Note: Certification is pending, however, it is expected to go through in December, since all the necessary standards are being met.

A Tale of Two Lobsters

I’m Dining Out Here
by Andrew Sprague

Aside from traditional lobster suppers there have been few restaurants over the years that have had menus focused exclusively on lobster. A good many restaurants have one lobster dish on the menu. Seafood restaurants often have two or three. But it’s rare to see either the majority or the entirety of a menu dedicated to the Island’s favourite crustacean. But two such establishments opened in Charlottetown within days of each other this past May.

Dave’s Lobster is in Founder’s Hall. It’s tucked into the right hand corner of the front foyer, where there was a coffee shop for a number of years. You order at the counter and you can eat inside or out on the ground level patio facing Prince Street. The menu is simple; two kinds of lobster roll; a traditional cold version called “The Local” and the “Some Fancy” which is served warm, a spiced up lobster taco, a daily feature roll and grilled cheese.

Lobster dishes are $15 and include a bag of kettle cooked chips. Daves also serves up local craft beer on tap including PEI brewing Company Blueberry Ale, which was my selection when I visited during the first week of May. I decided the best option for my first trip to Daves was to try the base model, “The Local”. It is a standard lobster roll, easy on the mayo, with green onions and celery served on a butter grilled, split-down-the-middle bun. Im a big fan of lobster rolls so its no surprise I enjoyed every bite. There were about eight ounces of lobster on the roll, which isn’t bad, but certainly not a heaping portion for $15. The whole trip cost $24 including the beer, taxes and tip, so its just a little more expensive than your average restaurant lunch.

I am confident Dave’s Lobster will do well all the same. Between the cruise ships and the spill over from the 2014 Celebration Zone, it is ideally located for a very busy summer.

On the other end of the spectrum is the far more upscale Row House Lobster Co. on Victoria Row. It’s in the building that was most recently home to Castello’s. Extensive renovations have opened up the interior space significantly by removing large sections of the middle wall. Weather worn, reclaimed wood dominates the motif which gives the restaurant a by-the-sea feel without the actual sea in sight.

The menu is dominated by lobster but includes other stand-byes including a steak, a chicken, a halibut, a salad and so on. Among the more notable dishes was the “Church Supper”; a traditional lobster supper with chowder, mussels and a side. At $42 it was out of my price range but was I ever tempted. I was also tempted by the lobster macaroni and the lobster scallop combo appetizer.

We started with a half dozen oysters and the lobster risotto cakes. They were absolutely delicious. The deep fried cakes were served with two really tasty sauces that complimented each other perfectly. Next for me was the lobster gnocchi. The first four bites were fantastic. From then on each bite got progressively richer despite repeated attempts to freshen my palette with pinot noir. The lobster was butter poached and it was served with a fried egg on top. I had to tap out with about five bites left, but that could also be because I kept taking bites of Jinny’s cioppino. The tomato based fish stew was chalk full of lobster, haddock, halibut and mussels. The broth was excellent and the portion would satisfy the meanest of appetites. Throw in a delicious panna cotta, which is like an Italian custard, served with a scotch cookie and lemon cream, and you have the makings of an all together great meal. The price was steep at $163 including a half  of wine and tip, but we went all out. Two people could easily eat there for $80-$100 and walk away stuffed and sated.

Enjoy your summer dining experiences. I'll be back in September to tell you what I had to eat.

Then and Now

Now n Zen offers a new food and beverage style to Stratford

I’m Dining Out Here
by Andrew Sprague

They got you started early on restaurant food at Glen Stewart Elementary in the 80s. Within eye shot of the school back then were Southport’s only two dining establishments; Dagwood’s Pizzeria and Kentucky Fried Chicken. The school had a deal set up where on specific days of the week parents could buy coupons so their kids could get a six inch pizza, or one piece of the Colonel’s finest with fries delivered hot to the school at lunchtime. Dagwood’s and Kentucky Fried were the closest thing we had to a cafeteria.

Since then Southport amalgamated with Bunbury, Crossroads, Keppoch and Kinlock to form Prince Edward Island's fastest growing and third largest community. But even after combining all those communities and seeing thirty odd years pass, the selection of food has improved only marginally.

For some reason Stratford has been less than kind to most restaurants. There was a steakhouse once, out by the fire department. It lasted about three years. Pizza Delight managed to hang on for about five years. Phinley’s Diner has bucked the trend a bit. It’s worked well as a family and wallet-friendly spot. Greco lasted quite a number of years, and the Chinese restaurant in the mini mall has had a good run. The longevity champion is KFC. There’s been pub food, pizza, diners, coffee shops, Chinese food, a couple of franchises and that's about it. Very few, if any, have tried to appeal to Stratford's new found yuppie sensibilities, until now.

Now n Zen Coffee and Tea House is next to a yoga studio of the same name halfway between Stratford Road and the school on Glen Stewart Drive. It seats between 15 and 20 people. The counter and a small kitchen greet you at the door. Seating and washrooms are in the back as is a fairly large electric fireplace surrounded by comfy chairs. It’s a nice, fresh space with high ceilings and lots of local art.

The menu is very straightforward; coffees, teas, a daily soup, deluxe grilled cheese sandwiches with or without ham, and desserts.

We popped in late on a Sunday afternoon a couple of weeks ago. We were both starving so we ordered big. We had a bowl each of the roasted red pepper soup. Jinny had a grilled cheese with Cows applewood smoked cheddar and apple on whole wheat bread. I had a grilled ham and cheese with three year old cheddar and pear on foccacia. The soup was fantastic and perfect for dipping. Jinny found her grilled cheese very smoky and couldn’t finish it, but she ate every bite of the soup and the tasty grilled biscuit served with it. My sandwich was huge. The pear provided a nice contrast to the rich flavour of the cheese and ham and I enjoyed every bite.

We had the boy with us and he was a handful so we took two hot chocolates and a chocolate espresso torte to go. The hot chocolate wasn’t as sweet as I’m used to, but the torte was really rich and chocolatey, so they balanced out nicely.

Now n Zen is a great place for Startfordians to grab a speciality coffee and a treat to go, or to sit with a friend and have lunch. It’s a step in the right direction for a town that might finally be ready to turn a corner in terms of food and beverage.

Events Calendar

January 2019
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27 28 29 30 31

Some Upcoming Events

Confederation Centre: Art Gallery exhibi...

Open daily Wafaa Bilal: 168:01 Until January 20 The solo exhibition of new and recent work by New [ ... ]

Gadfly crew

Urban roots dance January 31
Homburg Theatre Gadfly is an eclectic urban dance crew that is steppin [ ... ]

Garrett Mason at The Pourhouse

Nova Scotia bluesman booked for two nights in January January 18 & 19
The Pourhouse  East  [ ... ]

Recent News & Articles

A gift of Island poetry: Judy Gaudet

Curated by Deidre Kessler Anticipation Outside my window the world is hovering
on hummingbird wings [ ... ]

Coy—power trio

Talking Bands by Evan James Ceretti Story Sheidow (guitar, vocals), Emilee Sorrey (drums, vocals), [ ... ]

Distinguished alumni

Holland College awards Jan Cowper, Irwin MacKinnon, David Poirier The Holland College Foundation ha [ ... ]